This is our 7th day of walking since we left St. Jean Pied a Port and headed over the Pyranees into Spain. We are well into Navarre; tonight we found ourselves in the midst of the annual festival held in the ancient hill town of Zirauki, about 10 km past Puenta La Reina. As we inched up the steep narrow streets leading to the central plaza across from the church, people dressed in various types of white and red dress appeared. We were walking with Jorge from Hungary (a veterinarian cum photographer we had befriended outside of town) and one of the locals told us of the event. So as I write this the square is filled with long tables, families eating paella, bread and lots of local wine. Lots of wine! A surprisingly good small band and various singers are rocking the crowd with " Volare" while young kids sneak away to set off firecrackers.
Our New Zealand pals - Alistair and Sally- are here as they were last night in Obanos. Otherwise the group at the albergue is a mixture of countries; walkers and cyclists about 2/3 to 1/3.
Ceili, our perigrinating perra ("pilgrim dog") that travels in my pack, has contributed to our ability to strike up conversation. Young kids in particular always smile and comment when they spot her peeking out of my backpack.
For me the most surprising discovery so far along in these first 80 miles has been the community of people we encounter along the way. Fellow perigrinos are invariably open and sharing of themselves. While the rest of the world may glare angrily at each other across various walls of religion, culture and history, here on the Camino I have encountered zero emnity to others. Friendships are struck up on the road or in a bar sharing a morning cafe con leche. It is a refreshing and calming change from the "real world" outside that rushes ahead at 70 mph and tries to deaden the intensity of life with electronic wizardry.
Here are some pictures of our travels today.
