Tuesday 19/9/2013
We left Trinidad de Arres around 8:30 and within a half hour stopped for some incredible chocolate hot drink, cafe con leche and tiny pastries at Cafe Jorge. Then continued on Calle Mayor (Main Street) for about 4 miles into the heart of Pamplona, carefully looking for the blue and gold scallop shell signage showing the way. We approached the heart of th ed old city, protected by the high stone walls and entered by the French Gate. The portcullis raising system was a wonderfully unique nautilus design wheel winch (see picture below). Inside the old city life teemed as the people walked to work and small shops opened for business. We were planning a lay day after the 5 mile walk into town and found a very small hotel on Calle San Nicholas, which it turns out is the taps center of town.
So our lunch consisted of following the locals into a tapas bar and ordering what they were having. Joan had a goat cheese and fruit toast thing and a small cervesa which did something with jabon and shitake mushrooms and aqua con gaz. Then back to hotel and a nap. I later snuck out while Joan was sleeping and wandered over to the Iruna Restaurant which was one of Hemingway's favorites. Reading the International Herald Trib with a cafe con leche in an outdoor cafe and people watching is a great way to spend an hour!
Around 7 we wandered back to the imposing cathedral Santa Maria de Real and stayed while a Mass was celebrated. This 15th century Gothic masterpiece dominates the old city and is evidence of the power of the church in Spanish life I mm centuries past. We loved Pamplona and would return in a heartbeat. However we are to be up and out by 7 for a 12 miles walk up to 800 meters over Alto de Perdon and then to Urtega. The iconic sculptures on top capture pilgrims past and present. We joined the parade and the picture shows. The 3 mile walk down was steep, rocky and quite dangerous but we made Urtega by 3.
